Sunday, August 09, 2009

Q + A with makeup artist Toby Fleischman

Just one of the many beautifully done up faces done by Toby! When I noticed Evan Rachel Wood looking extraordinarily gorgeous, I tracked down her makeup artist, Toby Fleischman.

Toby is a genius with cosmetics and I think we can all glean some valuable wisdom from Toby's expertise. For more on Toby and to take a look at her portfolio, click here. A few months ago, I was lucky enough to have her work on my little face. Never have my eyes looked so good. If only she could do my makeup all the time...

What is something every woman needs in her makeup arsenal?
One product I think every woman should own is a great concealer palette. My favorite is Three Custom Colors Professional Concealer Palette because the range of shades works on everyone and I love the creamy, light consistency. With a palette of a few colors instead of just one, you have the flexibility to mix the perfect shade for your skin – a bit darker in the summer and lighter in the winter - one palette is all you need. Blend a darker shade as a crème shadow or a pink-toned color for a modern pale mouth when paired with a smoky eye. A palette can also be great when covering spots on other areas of the body since they might not be the same shade as your face!

How do you apply foundation- a brush, sponge or fingers? This always trips me up. Foundation sinks into my pores and I hate that!
I always say when it comes to makeup - there are no rules! Different application methods lead to different results. I love a wet sponge for a light and sheer application on those lucky ladies blessed with gorgeous skin. But more times than not I tend to reach for a brush to get the job done. I find that you have more control with the product, can build coverage in areas where you need a little more help, and buff, buff, buff your way to a flawless complexion.

As for foundation sinking into your pores, there are some great products targeting those issues. One of my favorites is Clinique’s Pore Minimizer Instant Perfector. It creates a thin veil over the skin to fill in pores and your foundation will glide on beautifully. New formulas of foundation such as CoverGirl and Olay’s fantastic marriage in Simply Ageless Foundation gets to the root of the problem. They are created to set up on top of the skin and they don’t sink into lines and wrinkles. Genius!

Your best advice for applying those fabulous false eyelashes?
Practice makes perfect! Applying lashes on yourself can be tricky even for me! The key is getting the right angle with a very steady hand. Strips can be faster and if you find the right one, they can still give you a flirty but natural look. But nothing beats individual lashes for added drama without looking too done.
You can add just a few on the outer corners or pile on a few layers for more drama. Using a set of angled tweezers, carefully pluck the spray from the tray. Dip the end in lash adhesive and wait a few seconds for the adhesive to get a bit tacky. This helps them stay put when lining them up. Holding the tweezers/lash with one hand, rest that wrist on the front of the other wrist. This gives you more control and leverage as you place the lash in your lash line – a great technique I learned from an actress on a photo shoot! Get as close to the lash line as possible and tweak for the right angle. Once the lashes are in place and the glue dries, coat both yours and the false lashes with mascara to lock them in place. If your lashes need to be curled, be warned, fake lashes take a curl VERY QUICKLY so you only need a quick squeeze of the curler.

Do you apply a separate primer, sunscreen, moisturizer or use an all in one product?
Like most women, I want to minimize the amount of time in front of the mirror so any product that accomplishes more than one step at a time is a plus in my book! But sunscreen is a must - whether you use a moisturizer with sunscreen in it or a foundation with an spf - don’t skip that step! As for primer, it depends on the skin type. Prepping your skin for a makeup application can make or break your look. But overall, my go-to product right now is Lait-Crème Concentrè (24-Hour Miracle Cream) to moisturize and prime.

What is your favorite-
Mascara - CoverGirl LashBlast Volume Blasting Mascara
Lipstick - Shiseido Perfect Rouge & Dior Addict Lipcolor
Gloss – Sephora Brand Lip Gloss
Foundation - Giorgia Armani, MakeUp Forever Face & Body Foundation, and CoverGirl/Olay Simply Ageless.
Powder - I try to keep powders to a minimum but I love a translucent powder to set foundation and take away shine. I tend to keep going back to Joe Blasco No Color pressed powder and Laura Mercier Pressed Powder.



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